Bow line on a wood runabout1/28/2024 Bayrunner is a bit deeper in the same size range, as an example, but even then at 15' most skiffs this size have very shallow hulls which would set the deck height, and that would dictate the looks and influence the design, greatly. Lunds, Gregors, and Starcraft of this size all seem to be much lower depth than what looks like would be needed. Wood will work for aluminum boat modifications of this scale if the wood is sealed as much as possible and bedded (glued with a thick rubbery sealant type adhesive) well. If you don't mind sitting completely above the deck and controls, as I think the case would be with the depth of this type of skiff? then all that has been said above will work you'd just have the controls very low and the wind screen disproportionately tall to the deck level. In most of the small open press formed aluminum skiffs I've seen the topsides are (far) too low for this deck to have the controls as high as a runabout does. So we could say that 4 to 6 inches above your hands is the lowest the deck could be and have the steering wheel cable box under the bow deck. Sitting on the forward thwart (cross wise fixed seat) and holding both hands over your knees, arms bent at the elbows, that is about the bottom of the steering wheel. What seems the most important decision to make is the relative height of the topsides. There is a plywood made to simulate teak and butyl calked strip planked decks that may be available thin enough to form over this small area? That and some cover boards (curved wood planks arranged around the top of a boat as edges for decks) would make the skiff look very dressy. Once you'd glued four 1/4" x 1-1/2" strips of wood to the one bedded and glued to the topsides extrusion, then I'd butt a couple of deck beams to this with triangular shaped glue and screw blocks (knees or breasthooks)ĭecking this with ply, glued and screwed to the two main side-to-side (transverse cambered frames) and the sheer clamp, would make a find job of this conversion. If not, then I'd glue (3M 5200 bedded) a series of wood strips inside as a sheer clamp to mount/seal the deck to. Welding a flange to this is pretty expensive, relative to the project scope, so I'd investigate if the extrusion were shaped so the ply foredeck could be mounted directly to that existing hull metal? SS sheet metal screws could be used to hold a ply deck to this part of most production skiffs by bedding in 5200. ![]() The bow handle measures 6 5/8 long, 1 3/8 wide (at widest) and 3 5/8 tall overall. ![]() Look inside for signs of leaks on the deck head and under the side decks. Pay particular attention when surveying, to the areas around fittings such as stanchions, any looseness will have allowed water to penetrate. This means the tops of the sides likely has an extrusion of some shape that has a groove to fit over the edge of the side sheets at their top edge (sheer) Here is a vintage wood runabout boat front bow handle and a set of line chocks. Walk around on deck, feel for soft or springy areas. Most of the small (15') aluminum skiffs are not welded material they're riveted with heavy extrusions rolled and mounted on the hull panel edges.
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